Hola from Madrid!

A recent post on a travel site I follow said Madrid "failed to charm."

I would love to know what those people did and where they went, because Leah and I find Madrid if not precisely "charming," then definitely fascinating.

We had a short time here - arrived Wednesday afternoon about 2 p.m., after a delayed (and bumpy) flight from Amsterdam. But we made excellent Metro connections from the airport, and found our hostal with no trouble. (Leah gets many points for her map-reading skills and serious guidebook research.)

We took full advantage of the two free hours the Prado (and the other major museums) offer - between 6 and 8 p.m. Tuesday through Friday, you can pick up a ticket and go through the galleries as rapidly or slowly as you like. Last night we had a list of things we had missed on earlier visits, and we took full advantage of the gallery plan and helpful guards. Tonight we returned, for more exploration and longer return visits to favorite galleries.

Since I was last there, in 2001, the Prado has gone through an amazing remodel and upgrade, that has added access, shop and cafe space, many new galleries and conference rooms. However, the museum still has its mysteries, and a visitor needs to be determined in order to get to the Bosch (El Bosco) "Garden of Earthly Delights" for example.

On display in the same area as Velaszquez' "Las Meninas" this spring is a visiting American masterpiece - "The Daughters of Edward Boit," by John Singer Sargent. Sargent studied in Paris with an artist who revered Velasquez, and he visited the Prado many times to study the master. Under glass is a page (in beautiful script) from the Prado's Museum Copyists' Book, which lists three visits by Sargent, including one on which he was registered to copy "Las Meninas."

This morning we spent time with 20th and 21st century art, at the Reina Sofia Museum. Since 2001 it too has had a massive upgrade, that includes an entirely new building and an extensive remodel of the former galleries.

Madrid is a wonderful place to eat, as well as to look at art. Today we sampled many bocadillos (little sandwiches), tapas of all sorts, and appropriate drinks. Fresh orange juice is available everywhere, and the coffee is splendid. (Not to mention the wine & aperitivos.)

Tomorrow we're off to San Sebastian.