Further adventures in La Belle France

Even in this age of the Internet, it's possible to feel completely clueless when travel is concerned.

Exhibit A: Weeks ago, when checking on train times for the journey from San Sebastian to Toulouse, I found a midmorning train we could easily make by leaving San Sebastian after breakfast. (To go from that part of Spain to France, it's necessary to take the commuter train to Hendaye, just across the border, then link to SNCF, the French system.)

When I checked a couple of days before we were to leave Spain, I could not find that train anywhere on line. Our best bet seemed to be to leave very early, then put in a couple of long waits.

So we left. Early. Before the sun was really up. The walk to the commute train station was pleasant, and we were in Hendaye much earlier than necessary. When we asked about the train I thought we had to take, the helpful reservations clerk said, "Oh no, Madame, you can take the 10:20" - the connection I wanted all along.

Instead of breakfast in San Sebastian, we dashed through a rainstorm to a cafe across from the station in Hendaye. Although it was called Cafe Jose and was, quite literally, steps from the Spanish border, the server just looked blankly at Leah when she asked for a "bocadillo" instead of a sandwich.

We spent much of that day on trains or waiting for trains, but finally pulled into Toulouse about 4:20 after an uneventful run from Bayonne. Our hotel, directly across from the train station, was quite serviceable, and we were happy to eat dinner and go to bed early.

Reason for wanting a hotel so close to the train was that most car rental offices in Toulouse are at the central station. However, we had not factored in Ascension Day, celebrated this year on Thursday the 13th. At the station, only one car rental office was open, and that agent had no available vehicles.

Plan B was an expensive taxi ride to the airport, where agencies WERE open. Without much fuss, we were soon off in our little silver Twingo, a diesel, which Leah likes so much that she is trying to think of a way to put it in her suitcase to take home! So far we have put nearly 300 kilometers on this peppy little vehicle - first the trip from Toulouse to Durfort on Thursday, then today about 200 kilometers as we drove south to explore some of the Cathar country.

It's cold and windy or raining here most of the time, but when the sun comes out it's lovely. La Cascade, where we stay in Durfort, is as welcoming as ever. This year there is the usual Seattle contingent, augmented with two women from Finland (cousins of a Seattle visitor.) One of the Finnish ladies is a retired biology teacher - the other is the current Finnish ambassador to Romania.

Tomorrow it's the big market in Revel, then back to Durfort to cheer on a parade of vintage cars that's due to come through the village about 11 a.m. Pictures to follow, I hope!!