Springtime still a tease -

...But there is no rain here in Paris so far, only cold overcast days that feel as much like November as anything else. Fortunately, I brought two sweaters. And a fleece vest. And my winter jacket. I've worn them all (not all at once -- but close!)

Monday afternoon the sun did break through, and suddenly every green metal chair in the Tuileries was occupied. Best are the low chairs that tilt you back a bit - perfect for sun-worshipping.

With a carnet (10 tickets - you get a discount) of Metro/bus tickets at hand, I walk as long and as far as I like, then look for the nearest transport home. This part of the 17th is well-served by buses, and the Metro line has plenty of transfer points.

Today I took the bus to the Luxembourg Gardens, walked back through the Latin Quarter, stopped in at Shakespeare & Co., Notre Dame, and wandered past the Hotel de Ville (where a nice new pedestrian plaza routes cars elsewhere, and makes a true gathering place.)

Moving this way through the city, without much of a plan other than to enjoy whatever comes along, pulls the map firmly into one's consciousness. I've now been in Paris often enough that I suddenly come upon familiar blocks, intersections, places where I've eaten or shopped or even stayed in the past. (On Sunday, a long walk took me across the river from Notre Dame, to the building where Terry and I rented an apartment for 3 weeks in 1990. From the outside, it looks just the same, although I'd be willing to bet the apartment itself has been massively upgraded, because of its amazing location.)

In spite of crowds of tourists and others thronging the streets, the Latin Quarter is still a good place to eat well, for not much money. Today I got a crepe from a stand on Ste. Michelle and took it across the street to eat in the park by the Cluny Museum.

After admiring the low fences, woven of branches, that surround the planted areas and define walkways and sitting areas, I read the placard nearby, and discovered that in 2000 a couple of French landscape architects ("architectes paysagistes") were given the interesting task of re-thinking the garden space. They worked with plant material already in place, as well as bringing back trees and shrubs that might have been part of the gardens when Cluny was a religious house. The result is a series of pleasant public sitting areas, divided from an area that is private to the museum - a few feet from a very busy Parisian boulevard, you can eat lunch, watch the passing parade, yet feel quite sheltered.