Sunshine at last!

Although the forecast was for more showers and thunderstorms - and it rained hard most of last night - today the weather got steadily better here in Paris. By late afternoon, as we walked in the Marais, the sun was out and the sky was almost cloudless.

Yesterday we carried umbrellas and used them from time to time, but we were lucky enough to be inside at the Louvre when the heaviest rain fell. On the courtyard by the pyramids, the wind had blown hard enough to push water out of the shallow fountain pools.

Seeing the sights

In spite of the economy, the possibility of swine flu, and up and down weather, Paris still appears to be everyone's favorite destination.

Today we followed some of the same routes I took last Sunday, starting with the market at the Place de Bastille. In addition to the regular food and dry goods market, there was another group of tents housing jewelers, clothing and accessories merchants, and purveyors of high-class dried and candied fruit (among other things.) We did our bit for the local economy (good thing Cathy was carrying a really big shoulder bag.)

From Place de Bastille, we made our way to the Place des Vosges, where locals and tourists enjoyed the lawns (it's one of the few Paris parks where there are no "keep off the grass" signs) and waves of people moved along the paths. Neither of us had been to the Marais for a few years, and we were amazed at the crowds and the changes at street level. Where it used to be full of small shops, delis and a few large restaurants, the district now is full of high end clothing, accessory and home stores, and expensive restaurants. The delis and falafel shops remain on the Rue des Rosiers, with lines of people waiting to get in or to order takeout.

Since the weather was pleasant (in spite of a forecast for rain) we kept walking, trying to find a place to sit that was somewhat away from the crowds. We finally found a nice corner cafe, where we got a table just inside the open windows and felt we had the best possible situation.

"Are you lost?" said an American voice behind us, as I checked my Paris Pratique Par Arrondissement book to verify our location (corner of Rue de Turenne & Rue des Francs Bourgeois.)

"I don't think so." After we explained where we planned to go - down Rue de Turenne then Rue St. Paul to Quai des Celestins, our questioner, a friendly person from South Carolina, said, "You do know where you are."

Rue St. Paul, a bit out of the main tourist area, is also full of elegant little shops, but many of them have been there for more than a few years. And in the midst of the Marimekko and antique jewelry and kilims, we found what we really needed - a bakery open for business. (The good bakery on Rue de Courcelles has been closed for the May 8 holiday, so part of every expedition this weekend has been to find bread.)

Visiting markets is a wonderful way to see a huge variety of neighborhoods in Paris. Yesterday morning we checked out the market on the Rue de Poncelet (near here) then, in the afternoon, rode the Metro to the Barbes-Rochechouart stop. This is an old elevated station on the #2 line, a stop that's close to Sacre Coeur church and Montmartre.

Although we climbed partway up the steps to the church, we decided we would rather investigate the many fabric shops of all kinds that line the nearby streets. After walking past a long line of shops and sidewalk bins full of cheap clothes, shoes and household goods (everything from lava lamps to wedding dresses) we eventually came to the fabric shops, a feast for the eyes. Although many shops are filled with glitter and tinsel and tulle, the really interesting ones sell beautiful upholstery and drapery fabrics, in every imaginable weight, color and texture. You can buy dark gray coarse linen, velvets, brocades, and tissue silks too light to imagine touching. One shop offered a bin of remnants, tied with dark raffia ribbon.

Tomorrow we deal with practicalities - railroad tickets to Toulouse, renting a car to get the rest of the way to Dufort, perhaps a visit to the Louvre.

And I will make one more effort to find the pictures I downloaded onto this computer - which seem to have completely disappeared! (Fortunately I did not erase the memory card.)

Sunshine! And "le weekend" approaches...

This morning the sun came out, tomorrow is a holiday, and most of Paris appeared to begin the weekend about noon! Outdoor cafe tables were packed, and shade felt good.

I was lucky enough to be at the Jardin des Plantes late this morning, just as waves of schoolchildren were settling onto the grass to eat their lunches, and mid-day devotees of "le jogging" ran along the paths, kicking up white dust.


As a reminder of prehistoric Paris, this beast seems to have a "what am I doing here?" look in his eye.



In spite of economic difficulties, Paris is not stinting its parks and gardens. People are every bit as worried about the state of their banks as we are at home, but trees and flowers are in bloom, grass is cut on schedule, and trash is picked up.

One new thing I notice is that every large park (the Tuileries, Luxembourg Gardens, Jardin des Plantes, Parc de Monceau) has significant numbers of blue-uniformed men and women with a red "security" band on one sleeve. Sometimes they patrol in small open electric jeeps.

So far I have barely set foot inside a major attraction, preferring to stay outside or to explore by bus. On crowded sidewalks (especially in this neighborhood, where there are lots of schools) it's important to remember that French children first learn to walk, then immediately graduate to scooters, which they push enthusiastically through crowds and across streets. Only a few of the smaller pushers wear helmets - and most of the people using the "Velib" rental bikes are also pedaling nonchalantly through the traffic, with only hair on their heads.

Springtime still a tease -

...But there is no rain here in Paris so far, only cold overcast days that feel as much like November as anything else. Fortunately, I brought two sweaters. And a fleece vest. And my winter jacket. I've worn them all (not all at once -- but close!)

Monday afternoon the sun did break through, and suddenly every green metal chair in the Tuileries was occupied. Best are the low chairs that tilt you back a bit - perfect for sun-worshipping.

With a carnet (10 tickets - you get a discount) of Metro/bus tickets at hand, I walk as long and as far as I like, then look for the nearest transport home. This part of the 17th is well-served by buses, and the Metro line has plenty of transfer points.

Today I took the bus to the Luxembourg Gardens, walked back through the Latin Quarter, stopped in at Shakespeare & Co., Notre Dame, and wandered past the Hotel de Ville (where a nice new pedestrian plaza routes cars elsewhere, and makes a true gathering place.)

Moving this way through the city, without much of a plan other than to enjoy whatever comes along, pulls the map firmly into one's consciousness. I've now been in Paris often enough that I suddenly come upon familiar blocks, intersections, places where I've eaten or shopped or even stayed in the past. (On Sunday, a long walk took me across the river from Notre Dame, to the building where Terry and I rented an apartment for 3 weeks in 1990. From the outside, it looks just the same, although I'd be willing to bet the apartment itself has been massively upgraded, because of its amazing location.)

In spite of crowds of tourists and others thronging the streets, the Latin Quarter is still a good place to eat well, for not much money. Today I got a crepe from a stand on Ste. Michelle and took it across the street to eat in the park by the Cluny Museum.

After admiring the low fences, woven of branches, that surround the planted areas and define walkways and sitting areas, I read the placard nearby, and discovered that in 2000 a couple of French landscape architects ("architectes paysagistes") were given the interesting task of re-thinking the garden space. They worked with plant material already in place, as well as bringing back trees and shrubs that might have been part of the gardens when Cluny was a religious house. The result is a series of pleasant public sitting areas, divided from an area that is private to the museum - a few feet from a very busy Parisian boulevard, you can eat lunch, watch the passing parade, yet feel quite sheltered.

Monday in Paris

This morning I woke to the swish swish of the cleaner's broom in the courtyard below the bedroom window. On Mondays he takes garbage cans from the shed to the street for pickup, cleans the courtyard and garbage areas, and vacuums the halls & stairs.

On the ground floor are several medical offices, very common on this short cul-de-sac that opens off a major street. The tiny elevator goes to the 6th floor (American 7th) but I've never been higher than the 3rd, where this apartment is located.

After some fiddling with THREE remotes, I've managed to pull in both TV and radio. First thing I saw on the CNN website was the same Croatian tourism advertisement that played constantly as Nancy and I floated down the Danube last year!

This year's contender for Beautiful Advertising Photos of Balkan Places is Macedonia, which promotes itself as a place to do business rather than a tourist destination.

Meanwhile, the most interesting news in on Al Jazeera English. Nice to get a different perspective from time to time.

Yesterday I checked out the big, noisy, cheerful market on the Place de la Bastille, and took a few pictures.

I should apologize to Monsieur, as the wind blew the plastic bags just as I snapped...

Spring is a tease...

After yesterday's warmth and sunshine, today began gray and cold (though the sun came out later.)

First priority was marketing. Near here is a wonderful market street, Rue Poncelet, where you can find every imaginable ingredient for your own culinary efforts - or buy the dishes already made.

Today I wanted someone else to do the cooking, so I bought half a poulet roti and a small container of ratatouille.

"Do you want the sauce for the chicken?" asked the rotisseur-in-chief. When I said yes, he dipped juices from a big tray under the rotisserie into a small recycled glass jar. I will use it for soup starter when I'm down to the chicken carcass.

I also bought first of the season raspberries, on special all over the market, cherry tomatoes, mixed greens and a small baguette. It's enough to keep me in meals for a while.

Shopping here is entertainment, exercise and language practice, all at once. Also an exercise in patience, I decided, when, later in the afternoon, I went to the neighborhood Monoprix for milk, yogurt and so on. French grocery checkers sit at their stands, and take their time, even on a busy Saturday. They know you can't do anything BUT wait - and if you're in line when the cash register tape runs out (I was) - tant pis.

But every customer politely says "Bonjour, madame," when it's his or her turn, and the checker almost always wishes you a "bonne journee."

Vive la France!

How cool is this?

Specifically, free wifi on a speeding train. With beautiful green, gold and brown fields rushing by, and Paris ahead.

This is a major holiday weekend in Europe, and the train is packed with people going Somewhere Else. Lots of families traveling - it seems to be a popular holiday for 3 generations to take together.

Last night Bruges geared up for May Day and the May Fair that will last most of the month. From my 4th floor room I had an unobstructed view of the fireworks display that kicked off the festivities.

Now on to Paris, where I can retreat to the apartment every night and pretend I'm not a tourist. On this visit I may even figure out how to work the television - last time it required coordination of two separate remotes.